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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their small place earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.